Build A T-14

Purple Martin House

I've always liked the basic design of the T-14.  It's a good house for martins and the design is just a little different than the normal looking purple martin house.  The vertical compartments allow for a more compact style and with a little ingenuity, a person can make them as tall as he or she wishes, assuming the pole will hold the load.  Likewise, with a little imagination, a number of different things can be done to enhance the looks of the house. 

The T-14 was originally designed by an Amish man named Andrew Troyer from Conneaultville, Penn.  Andrew has hosted martins for many years and really knows his stuff when it comes to taking care of them.  His design utilizes a 4 x 4 wooden post to mount on, however; I prefer to use round steel poles to mount all my martin housing.

Should you wish to attempt to build one yourself, then on this page we'll show you the basics of how to build one.  As for the design, it's just going to be of a basic design, no special bells or whistles.  If the builder wants a more ornate house, then it's up to them to be creative and do as they wish to personalize it.  This house is different in the fact that it utilizes plastic molded inserts for the entrances instead of cutting the entrances directly into the wood front door, an enhancement of my own to hold nesting materials in instead of nesting boxes, a few perching rods added to the top and of course, the ability to mount it to a round steel pole.

Please note:  I'm not going to give full detailed dimensions and instructions but instead, will give the basic dimensions I used on this house or show a few pieces with dimensions on them to give the 'idea' of what I did.  It is assumed that the person wishing to build this unit has some basic wood working knowledge and skills and I'm assuming they know most woodworking terms and know what is meant by, and how to, 'pre-drill' screw holes.  As with any martin house, it's simply a wooden box with some shelves for nests and a front door that makes it fully accessible.  I do not use round holes in any of my martin housing, thus the addition of the plastic inserts to the front door.

Update Note:

Since the original posting of this page, I've since added owl guards to this house.  (See photo at the bottom of the page).  In fact, I have owl guards on all my wooden houses.  I've seen what an owl can do to a colony that isn't protected from them.  However; if you do not want or need to use owl guards, then the original posting of the photos is shown here.

A Few Comments:

As we progress thru the build cycle, I'll describe what I've done and maybe even throw in a tip or two on how to make things easier for the average T-14 house builder.  They are there simply to help with how or why I did something.  Maybe you know a better way.  If so, use it...if not, then mine does work.

To prevent this page from getting huge, I designed it using mostly 'thumbnails' for the pictures.  To see the 'full size' picture, simply click on the thumbnail and a full version of the picture will activate.  

I know that some folks are going to be 'cost conscious' but I suggest using materials that are strong enough to, not only be safe for the birds, but safe for the humans as well.  I personally will not skimp on a winch just to save a few bucks if my own safety (or anyone else's for that matter) is at stake.  I'm one that simply likes quality.  I have no problem spending a few extra bucks to get a good 'quality' winch and 1/4" cable.

I built this house using Western Cedar.  It's light, plenty strong for this purpose and will last forever out in the elements, even without painting if so desired.  I know it might be difficult to obtain in some areas, but if at all possible, get it.  You'll won't regret it years down the road.

If Western Cedar just isn't available, White Pine will also work but it must be treated with a good wood preservative (such as Thompson's Water Sealer).  Let it set for a couple of days to allow it to sink into the pine and then throw on a coat of good primer and paint if it is expected to last for any time out in the elements.  Shelving material from just about any lumber supplier is the same size as the Western Cedar (11 1/4" wide) and will work, but make sure there are as few knots as possible.

Plywood:  Sorry, but I am not a proponent of using Exterior plywood for this project.  Exterior Plywood, even though it is supposed to be treated for outdoor use, just isn't good in this case.  Too many edges to deal with and if water gets into the plies, then it is going to come apart and thus, all the hard work put into it is for not.  Plus, it's also much heavier than the two other woods I suggested; something else to think about.

As stated earlier, I used molded inserts for my entrance holes.  I love these things and here are a couple of reasons why. 

  -they come in a number of different hole options.

  -they are molded to exact specifications and every one of them is the same size and I don't have to worry about whether or not the entrance size is correct or not.

  -they are easily screwed onto the front of the door and if for any reason another hole style is desired, they can simply be 'unscrewed' and a different one screwed in it's place.

  -if starlings are a problem in any area, these things work wonders at keeping them out.

  -they are relatively inexpensive and are made to last for ages.

  -and finally, the martins have no problems using them and that is a biggie...

If you are interested in using these inserts, they can be found here at S&K Mfg  

Please note:

Once you get on the S&K page, you'll notice a number of different versions of the entrances and it'll be up to you to choose which one you want to use.  The ones I used to build this house are the ES entrance and the 3P porch.  (See photo and comment at bottom of page before ordering).  However, if you want to make your compartments even deeper, and yes, the martins do love this, there's the UTRS or Ultimate Tunnel.  I also added a few of these to my own house and the martins do like them.

Materials:

The following is a materials list for all the things needed to build this T-14:

5 - 1" x 12" x 12 feet of lumber

1 - 8 ft long treated 2 x 4

Decking Screws- (self drilling, easy to use, square or Phillips drive)

You will need...

   -2 lbs of 1 5/8", (used throughout the house)

   -1 lb of 3", (Actually, only about a dozen of these are needed for the mounting frame)

   -1 lb of 2 1/2"  (Yes, you could use the 3" in this case).

   -2 dozen 1" sheet rock screws

4 - sets of 2" door hinges

4 - self locking door hooks

14 - entrance inserts (your choice of design).  More how to obtain them further down the page.

1 - gallon of latex primer

1 - gallon of white exterior latex paint

1 - quart of trim paint, (color, your preference)

1 - 1000 lb min load winch  (Yes, 1000 lbs.  Lets be safe).  If you can find the kind with a safety lock, then get it

1 - ground socket (sched 40)

1 - pulley as described below plus the mounting brackets

1 - 'steel' pole to mount the house on.   (Schedule 80)  Yes, it is expensive, but it is also strong enough to hold this house up.

Enough concrete to fill the hole you will have to dig

Obvious things such as paint brushes, tape, etc

Tools required:

Shown here are a few of the basic tools that I used to build this T-14.  There are of course more, but this should give you an idea of what is needed.

Some of the tools are standard in any workshop or garage.  The picture shows most of them, but there are a few more that will make life a whole lot easier or are a downright necessity in any woodshop.

-A solid flat working surface.  Many, many years ago I picked up a couple of 3' x 3' table tops from a restaurant that was remodeling.  (Free and Formica tops).  I brought them home and built a solid base under each of them.  I then added some locking casters so that they could easily be rolled around the shop to where I want them and then be locked in place.  Both are exactly the same height.  I added a small electrical plug under each along with a small ledge so if I ever have a long piece to work on, I can clamp them both together, giving me one large 3 x 6 foot workspace.  They can be written on with a pencil for quick calculations or painted on or just about anything.  If they get messy, I simply use a scraper, clean the major stuff off and then use a palm sander with fine sand paper and 'clean the rest off'.

-A good table saw will go a long way in making things a whole lot easier.

-A Band Saw.  They make easy work of small or curved pieces.  A Jig Saw will do the same thing, but a little harder to work with on the very small pieces.

-Wood Clamps.  There's an old woodworking adage that states, "you can never have enough wood clamps".  How true that is.  Although I have a bunch, I have found times when I could use even more.  If you're working alone a lot like I do, a variety of wood clamps will really come in very handy.

-A soft faced Mallet.  A couple of different kinds if possible.  They work great to 'urge' some pieces in place without damaging the surfaces of the wood.

-A stiff scale.  I like to use a variety of scales (or rulers if you like) when I work with wood.  It makes life a whole lot easier when trying to get those 'exact' dimensions.  I also use them to draw straight lines on my work pieces.  If you have to buy one, look for one with cork stuck to the back of it.  The cork works wonders at keeping it in place when you're marking.

-A little palm sander comes in handy to get rid of any rough edges or splinters.  If a palm sander isn't available, a block of wood with sandpaper wrapped around it will work also.

-The Ice Pick.  I use that to punch small center marks for screws such as in the hinges or anywhere else that a puncture mark is required.  Makes starting some kinds of screws much easier.  An sharp 'awl' will do the same thing...or...if you have an old #2 Phillips head screwdriver around that isn't much good any more, grind it down to a fine sharp point.  It'll work just as well.

-A good measuring tape.  One that clips to your belt or pocket is best (although I think they all do that now).

-A compass, speed square, lots of pencils and marking tools and yes, a very 'sharp' cutting instrument or two.  There are a number of varieties on the market.  I use the utility kind that folds up and clips to my pocket and if the blade ever gets dull, I simply change out to a new blade.

-A carpenter's apron.  I have a couple that I like and although I personally don't wear one all the time, they do hang on the shop wall if I do need one because there are those times when they come in handy to keep screws, pencils and other little tools handy when a project gets complicated and things need to be within easy reach.

-A long driver extension to fit your drill.  In this case you will be reaching thru the house to screw it to the pole and the drill just won't fit in far enough.

For the most part, most folks will have a variety of these tools around their shops and can fit them to their needs.

So, with all that said, let's build a T-14.

As you notice in the opening picture at the top of this page, the T-14 is a 4 sectioned house, having two different height sections.  Two have 3 compartments and two have 4 compartments, thus T-14.  This allows you to put all 4 of them close together in a cluster on a single pole.  Hence, from this point on, they will be called the 'short' and 'tall' boxes, respectively.

The dimensions for the sides for the 'short' boxes are 11 1/4" wide x 22 1/2" tall.  (4 ea are required).

The dimensions for the sides for the 'tall' boxes are 11 1/4" wide x 29 3/4" tall.  (4 ea are required).

The dimensions for the backs and doors for the short boxes are the same, 8 1/2" wide x 22 1/2" tall.  (4 ea required).

And finally, the dimensions for the backs and doors for the tall boxes are 8 1/2" wide x 29 3/4" tall.  (4 ea required).

Of the pieces cut for the doors and backs, pick the best 2 for pieces for each size to be used for the doors since the doors will be the parts that are seen.

You will also need to cut out the individual compartment floors.  They are 7" wide x 11 1/8" deep.  (A total of 18 will be required).

One note here.  Good woodworking practices dictate always drilling pilot holes for screws, especially if they are close to an edge.  This prevents splitting of the wood plus it helps give the screws a good lead in direction, keeping them straight.

To begin, start with a short section.  Take 2 sides and a back and set them in position against one another, the side edges going against the back.  This is where the clamps will come in handy.

Note:  Western Cedar usually comes with one rough side and one planed side.  The un-planed side should ALWAYS be directed towards the birds.  The rough side allows them to get good 'gription' with their claws.  If you build from pine or some other wood that is planed on both sides, it might help to actually use some very 'course' grit sandpaper and rough up the inside surfaces a little, especially the floors.

Now, mark the back where you want to put the screws.  I used 3 screws along each side of the short boxes and 4 on the tall boxes.  Pre-drill your holes and then screw the back onto each side with 1 5/8" decking screws.

Next, stand up the box.  Take one of the compartment floors and slide it into the bottom of the box, rough side up.  Tap in place to make sure it fully seats against the back.  Pre-drill the sides and then put two screws into each edge of the floor.  Turn the box upside down and repeat for the top.

Next, turn the box back upright and each individual floor needs to be added.

Tip:  Since my compartments are 6 1/2" high, I cut some plywood spacers that were 6 1/2" wide and stood one on either side of the box and then set the floor on them.  This gave me the same distance every time, and each time I added a floor, I simply moved the spacers up to the next floor. 

Each time you add a floor, use a speed square to draw lines on the outside of the sides indicating the center of the floor edge.  Pre-drill and put in screws.  Repeat for each floor.

Next, I added what I call 'keepers'.  I didn't use individual nest boxes, so I created a little keeper to keep the nesting materials in the back of the compartment.  These are nothing more than 2 1/2" wide blocks with a 45 deg bevel (angle) cut along one side.  They set in the front of each compartment with the beveled edge towards the back of the compartment.  These are placed in the front of the compartment to help keep nesting materials to the back of the compartment preventing the material from blocking the front entrance hole.  14 are needed and can be simply screwed in place with 1 5/8" screws.  No pre-drilling required for these.  These 'tops' of these keepers now becomes the 'floor level'.  You should now have what is shown in the picture.

When done you should have 4 boxes with all the floors and keepers in them.

Next we'll add the doors.  I match my doors to my boxes.  Because this is not a piece of furniture, but instead a birdhouse, there might be some slight differences between boxes, so just for that reason, I match the doors to the boxes before I do any cutting.

...then by adding a number at the top of each door and box, I'm always sure the correct door will go on the correct box in the correct orientation.

Once the doors are marked, place one against its box and slide it a little to the left.  Using a pencil, mark the level of all the floors (keepers) on the front of the door. 

Next, using a speed square, extend the lines across the 'front' of the door.

Now, draw a line up 1/4" from that floor line for each compartment.  The reason for this line is to insure the bottom of the entrance hole is 1/4" up from the top of the keeper surface.

Now, since we are using the entrance hole inserts, place an entrance over the 1/4"  line keeping the bottom of the hole on that 1/4" line.  Locate the entrance insert left to right where you want it to be and trace in the entrance hole as shown.

Just a hint here!  I staggered my entrances left and right up the door so that I got a nice ergonomic look for the door.  I didn't care for the look with the inserts directly over the top of one another.  The 'outside edge' of my inserts are 3/4" in from the edge of the door.  This puts the entrance 'hole' in far enough so that the sides of the box don't interfere with the birds as they negotiate the entrance.  Then, I traced my entrance hole.

Next, draw in the box around the entrance hole as shown centered about the entrance hole.  The 2 3/8" x 3 1/4" dimensions I show in this picture will allow 'all' entrances of this design to fit the opening since they are all made with the same mold.  The cutout is big enough to easily allow the birds to enter and exit without feeling 'squeezed' by the thickness of the front door.  It's also big enough to allow the air holes in the molded insert to be well inside the cutout and thus, air flow will not be hampered.  Once the rectangle opening is outlined, draw an " X " from corner to corner to indicate where the material is to be removed.  You want to remove material from the 'floor line' up.  Remember the old adage about working with wood..."Measure twice, cut once..."  ...don't want to waste a perfectly good door...

Now, in 2 opposing corners, drill a hole big enough to easily get the blade of the jigsaw in.  (I used a scroll cutting blade).

Next, clamp the door to the table and starting at one of the holes, cut both lines emanating from the hole.

Now go to the opposing hole and finish both cuts.

With just a couple swipes of the jigsaw, a nice square cutout is the result.  Both corners where the holes were drilled can now easily be cleaned up to square.

Repeat this step for all 14 entrances on all doors.

Adding the doors:

Now lay the box and matching door on it's side with the side you want the hinge on facing up.

Next measure down 3" (or whatever distance you'd like your hinges to be at) from the top of the door.  This line is the top of your hinge.  Likewise, opposite for the bottom hinge.

Now, insuring that the bottom of each cutout is even with the keeper surface, clamp the door in place.

Now position a hinge as shown in the picture.

Note:  I replace the screws that come with the hinge on the part of the hinge that fits the door with some 1" long sheet rock screws.  I just don't feel that the original screws would have enough strength to hold the door if for some reason a wind were to suddenly take hold of it.  However, the 1" long sheetrock screws have plenty of holding power.  Notice the 'puncture' holes made by my ice pick!  And if you feel that the other screws should be replaced, then have at it.  It's your house...  Just take note that they are long enough to break thru into the nest cavity.

The finished look...

I like to use these little self locking clasps to keep my doors shut.  That way, I feel the doors aren't going to pop open because the clasp mysteriously opened...  Call me crazy, but they work.  If you have a better idea, then again, have at it.

Double check everything and make sure it works...

Adding the inserts

Now that you have all the holes cut out, draw a line that is 1/2" 'down' from the bottom of the cutout.  This line is to be used for lining up the insert to the correct height in relation to the cutout.

Place the 'assembled' insert on the box, lining the bottom of the insert up with the the 1/2" line while at the same time, centering the insert over the cutout.  Using 4 of the 1" long sheet rock screws, screw in place.  Don't over tighten!  The inserts are plastic and will deform if the screws are drawn down too tight.  Yes, the screws may stick slightly thru the door.  If this happens, use a grinder (or Dremmel Tool) and grind off the sharp points of the screws flush to the inside door surface.

Now repeat for all boxes.  When done, you should have 4 boxes that look like the ones shown.

Yes I know, I can hear all the questions now.  If I'm going to paint my house, why am I adding these inserts now? 

There are a couple of reasons.  One is because I like to paint right up to the edge of the insert.  This seals any cracks, thus not allowing rain to come inside the box from the cracks around the edge of the insert.  Another is, I'd have to re-draw the 1/2" lines under the holes to line up the insert on the paint.

I guess it really doesn't matter.  If you want to wait and add them after all construction is done, then that is your prerogative.  It's your house.

The roof

Now we can proceed to the roof.

Cut 8 boards to the dimensions shown and then add the roof marks as shown.  Then, cut off the angled sides.

DO NOT throw those little corner pieces away.  They will be used later.

Next, drill a hole downward in the angled edge of each piece.  Then, simply screw them to the top of the boxes as shown using the 2 1/2" screws.

Note:  The way I show the mounting of these pieces sets them back one board thickness from the face of the door.  If you want the face of your house to be even with the face of the door, then cut 4 more of them only make them 1/4" shorter.  That way they will fit up under the roof and still allow your door to open and close.  They are mounted by screwing them right onto the face of these first pieces.  Yes, you'll end up with a double thickness on the front, but it can't be seen and the face of your house will now be even with the face of the door.  Even if you don't put them on now, they can always be added later should you wish.  In fact I suggest they be added after the roof is installed.  Makes for a better fit.

Now for the roof.  Cut two boards 8 1/2" wide by 14" long (or as long as you want your roof to be), then screw one onto the edge of the other.  For the aesthetics of the roof, I decided to put the rough side out.  You do as you wish with yours.  If you don't like the way it looks, then simply unscrew them, turn them around and screw them back together.

Then, take the assembly to the table saw and run it thru the saw set at 8 1/4".  Flip it for the other side and run it thru again.  This will give both sides of the roof the same dimensions. Why 8 1/4"?  Because any longer and the door would hit the eave of the roof when fully opened.

Now place the roof on the box, flush with the back of the box, mark and drill for the holes to mount it.

Yes, I know there's about an inch opening under the roof eves.  I like the idea of air flowing thru the attic of the house.  If you don't like the opening to be wide open because of other small birds or insects such as 'mud dobbers', (if you live in the south), then two things can be done.  One, some screen can be fashioned to fill in the gap still allowing for air flow, or if you prefer, another piece of wood can be added to fill in the gap, closing it off period.  Your choice.

Finished boxes with roofs!  Yes!  But finished?  No, not quite!

Purple martins love to perch while socializing or just plain sunning themselves.

So with that in mind, let's make some rooftop perches.

In the picture I show the components to make a perch to fit on top of your house roof.  These are my ideas.  If you want to try something a little different, then by all means, have at it.  Maybe your tastes or imagination is a little different than mine.

What I did to make the rods was cut me 4 - 5/8" square pieces of cedar, 24" long.  I then ran them thru the router with a 1/4" round over bit, thus giving me an 'almost' round dowel.  Why not round?  Because I wanted a small flat surface to drill the mounting hole and to mount the rod to the rod support on the roof.  If you want, you can simply purchase 5/8" dowels and use them.

Now, remember those pieces I told you not to throw away!

Starting in the upper left section of the picture, take one of those pieces, section it in half with a speed square and then cut it in half.  Next, set the table saw to 1 3/4" and 'top' the angle off those smaller pieces.  Next, and I used my metal ruler for this, on the bottom of the piece, mark a 90 degree area that will fit down over the roof.  Then, I simply connected the corners giving me the shape you see in the photo.  Lastly, drill a screw hole down thru the middle of the piece to mount it to the roof.  Now simply cut away anything that doesn't look like a perch rod support, like the ones shown in the photo, and viola, you have some perch rood supports.  Again, if your imagination is working and you want to try something different, then go for it.

Place 2 of the perch rod supports on the roof, one even with the back of the box and the other somewhere towards the front that looks appealing to you.  I then marked and drilled the two screw holes in the perch rod to correlate with the perch rod support holes I set on the roof.  Now all you have to do is set the perch rod on top of them and add these pieces to the roof with 2 1/2" screws, screwing down thru the rod, thru the perch rod support and into the roof.

And this is what the house should look like at this point.

The mounting frame

Now, we have to build the frame to mount the house to the round steel pole.  Most plans for these houses are designed to go on square 4 x 4 wood posts, but I just don't like wood in this situation.  It can warp or twist and it's just too much trouble to dig it out of the ground and then put a new one in, so I use round steel pipes for my poles with ground sockets.

You need to cut the 2 x 4 in pieces as I have shown.  The long ones are the same height as the short box which is 22 1/2".

The short ones are the same length as the width of the house, or 8 1/2" long.

Nothing needs to be done with the long pieces, but the short ones need to be marked as I have shown in the picture.

Drill 4 - 5/16" holes as I have shown.

Next, using a band saw or jigsaw, cut down the middle and then cut out the hole for the pipe and then clean out the material between the holes.  The order in which you do these is up to you.  You may want to do the hole and slot cutting before you cut it in half.  The hole is obviously for the pole to go thru and the slots are for the cable to run thru.  You'll also need to drill a screw clearance hole in each corner of the block.  These are to assemble the frame.

Next, screw the unit together as shown using the 3" long screws.  Screw the entire frame together so that the holes are in the correct positions.  Make sure they draw up good.

Quick tip:  Scraping the screws across a bar of soap 'lubricates' the screws making inserting these long screws a whole lot easier.

Now, remove one end piece from each end of the frame.

So why did we screw the whole thing together only to take part of it back apart?  Because it makes it easier when this frame is added to the pole.  The holes will already be there aligning the screws and the screws will go back in much easier.  

Adding the frame to the boxes:

We now have to fit the frame to the boxes, or vice-versa.  The boxes will be individually screwed to the frame once it is mounted to the pole, so we are going to make provisions for that now.

Stand the frame up against the back of the 'tall' boxes first.  Then take a pencil and outline the 'inside' of the frame on the back of the box.

Also, draw a line across the box at the outside top of the frame. 

Now you can easily see where the holes need to be drilled so that the screws will go into the frame from the 'inside' of the box compartments.  These holes can be drilled from the outside back of the box and when doing so, slightly angle them in at about 15 degrees.  Remember, you are going to be working in a small confined space and it's easier to angle into the frame than to try to come straight in.

Take a look at the picture and and you can see where I drilled my holes, one on either side of each of the 3 lower compartments.  No, the upper compartment will not get holes.

On the short boxes, all you need to do is drill 3 holes right down the center of the back since they will be going into the frame from the side.

Now, one last thing to do to the boxes.  When we get the frame mounted on the pole, we are going to need some way to hold the boxes in place while we are screwing them into the frame. 

Cut some small pieces as shown, drill holes in them and mount them to the back of the box.

Remember that line we drew at the top of the frame.  The bottom of these blocks will be placed right level with that line and even with the outside edge of the box.  Then, when we set the box up to the frame on the pole, the blocks rest on the top of the frame, only needing one hand to hold the box in place while we use the other hand to do the screwing.

Why the split blocks?  To clear the pipe in the middle, simple as that!

The small boxes only get one block, right in the middle.  That block needs to be less than 1 1/2" long or it won't fit between the other blocks that are already mounted with the tall boxes.  This small block also helps center the top of the short box when it's mounted to the frame.

And that's it.  The construction is all done.

Now I would say that is one pretty good looking T-14 just waiting to be primed and painted and ready to be hung on a pole, raised in the air and ready for purple martins to show up..

Finishing:

I'm assuming everyone doesn't need to be told how to paint a martin house.  However, I will add one little tip here.  I am no Leonardo Divinci when it comes to painting.  Because of people like me, they invented 'painter's tape'.  It works wonders when painting one drastic color against white, especially Red like I'm using.  (The Red matches our own house roof).

The winch:

Your going to need a good winch.  Make sure that it has a 1000 lb load capacity and at least a 1/4" diameter steel cable.  Don't need a T-14 coming down on anybody's head because of a cheap winch or weak cable.

Do not get the cable with the plastic coating.  It'll only peal off and cause problems down the road.

NEVER USE ROPE on a winch!

Rope has nowhere near the strength to be used in a winch, will easily break and someone will get hurt.  Spend the few extra bucks and be smart and safe!

The Pole:

I use 1.90" O.D. Sched 80 steel tubing for my poles on my martin houses.  (Or 1 1/2" Sched 80 steel pipe).  Sched 40 may seem strong to you, but in a wind storm, the lateral forces exerted on a T-14 mounted on a Sched 40 pipe will make it give way and it will bend or even worse, the house will come all the way down to the ground.  You don't want that because now you'll have to buy another pipe and that would cost more than what the original Sched 80 pole would have in the first place.  Plus, no telling what damage would happen to your hard built T-14 and the repairs it will require.  Spend the money and get a good pipe.  With a little paint, it will last you for many, many years.

As for the length of the pole, that will pretty much depend on your location and set-up.  The numbers can range anywhere from 12 feet - 18 feet above ground, with the average being around 15 feet.

The more open you are, the shorter the pole can be.  If your location has trees or maybe a small out-building somewhat close by, then it will need to be a little higher however; remember, the taller you make it, the more it will sway in the wind. 

I have a pretty open location, so all my poles are 12 feet high + 30" for the length of the ground socket.

I ALWAYS use ground sockets for my poles.  I buy 2" I.D. Sched 40 and sink them at least 30" into the ground.  I dig the hole a little deeper than needed and add some crushed stone for drainage.  I make sure the tops of the ground sockets are below ground level.  Using ground sockets makes it much easier for maintenance on the main pole or to replace them.  And if for some reason I have to move the pole, all I have to do is put a new ground socket in the new location, move the pole, and then forget about the old ground socket.  It's below ground level and no one will ever know it was there.

Here's the pole in the ground, winch and pulley added and ready for the house.  My winch is 30" up from the ground because when the house is all the way down, I need to be able to see and reach into the top compartments of the house.

One little tip here.  I took a heavy washer, cut a slot in it with a hacksaw and twisted it at the cut with a couple of pliers so that I could slip the cable in.  Then, I simply twisted it back to flat.  This washer will allow the cable (hook) to set against the bottom of the frame without the cable 'wallering' out wood of the frame.

For the pulley, I had one turned down from aluminum and a couple of brackets made to hold the whole thing together.  The pulley is centered with washers and the brackets have flanges on them fitting over the pulley to prevent the cable from ever coming down.

If you do not have the option to have a pulley made, then there are a number of different places where the pulleys can be purchased.  Heavy duty ones can be gotten or ordered at many hardware stores or auto parts store.  Make sure they are made for 'steel cable'.  You just have to adapt the mounting in the brackets to fit the bore of the pulley. 

Also, McMaster Carr has them.  http://www.mcmaster.com 

Click on the link given and once you get on the page, in the search box on the left, enter this number:  3168T25

This will take you to a pulley that will work for this project.

The pulley:

…is made of cast iron for good strength.

…will take a ¼” diameter cable.

…will hold 1500 lbs.

…has a 3/8” bore.

…has a 2 - 3/8” thread diameter (the distance required to get the cable outside of your 2” diameter pole).

…at the time of this writing the cost was around $24… (I said these things weren’t cheap).

Along with the one I suggest, a number of other different options will also be displayed and if you decide you don’t want the one I suggested, then you can find and use something different.  However, I… STRONGLY …suggest that SAFETY be a concern in any alternate selections. Weight, pulley size, cable size and UV rays from the sun all need to be considered in any selection.  Plastic is not a good choice in this case.  In some cases, cheap isn’t a good idea and this is one of them…

As for the brackets, you'll have to make them or make a little drawing and then have them professionally manufactured as I did.  The brackets will need one hole for the pulley, 2 1/2" below the safety flanges and then 2 more holes to mount it to the pipe.  Those holes should be at least 3 inches apart and I use 5/16-18 bolts to mount mine to the pipe.

Make sure they are plenty strong enough (at least 1/8" thick Aluminum) to safely handle the loads.  In my original calculations on the brackets I used a 5 to 1 safety factor, so the brackets you have made will have to be able to handle a load of at least 300 lbs.  Again, safety is a concern and we don't need anything coming down at the wrong time because of weak mounting brackets.

Now the frame can be be added to the pole.  Yes, I like my clamps.  Sometimes they just plain come in handy.

To mount the frame, simply slide it in from the rear of the pole, fitting the cables in the slots.  Add the bottom part of the frame and hold it in place with a clamp, or someone else's hands if they are available.  Then, simply screw it together just as was done back on the work bench.

Make sure it easily slides up and down the pole.

Now is the time we've been waiting for, adding the house to the pole.

Grab a tall box, 6 - 1 5/8" screws and a drill with a long driver in it and head to the pole. 

Start by setting the box on the frame with the little blocks that were added to the back of the box.  Make sure it is centered at the top.  In the 3rd compartment up, add one screw to one of the two holes there.  Now, check the box for square on the frame. Once satisfied, add the other 5 screws.

Repeat the procedure for tall box # 2, insuring it is square with the frame.

Now, one of the short boxes can be added.  When you slip it up to the frame, the top should be automatically squared to the pole because of the short hanging block on the back.  Notice it fits right between the other hanging blocks on the tall boxes.  Now add one screw to the top hole.

Now check the bottom of the box for square and when satisfied, add the other 2 screws.

And finally, the last box following the procedure as above.

Now, you can test the winch system to make sure it works.  Run it all the way to the top and let it all the way back down.  It should run smoothly with no hitches.

Tip:  A little grease on the winch gears each spring will make it run much smoother and will also protect the gear teeth from the elements.

Now, if this is as far as you are going with it, then you are finished and you now have a T-14 ready for martins to show up.  Add just a little bit of nesting materials in each compartment and they'll have something to sit on for those first few cool nights.  They'll also use this material to start their nest with.

As for me I have one more bit to do...I need to add my gourds...

Yes, even though I have a new T-14, I'm still a gourd man so I'm adding 4 of them to the house, one under each box.

To do so, I stuck a fender washer (big washer, small hole) on a 2 1/2" screw and then screwed it into the side of the house, right about in the middle of the bottom keeper.  That gives it plenty to hold onto.

If you plan to do this, DO NOT hang the gourd and then tighten it down onto the wire.  The gourd hanging wire should spin freely behind the washer.

Reason!  If the wire were squeezed between the washer and house, the gourd would not be able to swing freely, but instead, every time the gourd moved, either from the wind or the birds landing on it, the wire would bend a little.  After time, the wire would finally fatigue and break and you don't want that, especially if it has eggs or baby birds in it.  The washer should be loose enough to allow the swinging, but not allow 'twisting' of the gourd.  Twisting is a no-no.

So, there you have it.  A T-14! 

This project took me a total of 5 days.  Although the house was built in just 2 days, I allowed time for paint to dry.

The cost was close to $300 because of the rise in the cost of everything.  Wood, ground socket, pole, winch & cable, pulley & brackets and paint, they all added up.  The cost might be more or less in your area.

A fun project and a good future home for some martins that I expect will appreciate it when they return next spring.

Update Note:

Since the original creation of this page, I've since added Owl Guards to my T-14.  For those that are wondering what the house would look like with them, here it is.  If you do decide to add them, I suggest NOT putting the little plastic porches on the entrance hole inserts.  (they actually get in the way).  Instead, adjust the individual porches on the owl guards so that they are 1/4" below the bottom of the insert entrance.  This will align the outside/inside floors and make them the same level.

If you live in an Owl prone area, (like I do) you just might want to add owl guards to it while you're at it.  The instructions to do that are also on my website http://chuckspurplemartinpage.com/owlguard.htm

It doesn't take much and adds a lot more protection to the house for your martins.

Enjoy!